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This cool caterpillar in Peru will transform itself into looking like a snake when it feels threatened []

(via glumshoe)

kathuman replied to your post: kathuman replied to your post: keyhole dolls part…
Yes, the woes of sewing are vast and plentiful ><

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They are indeed. You know, these dolls take as much time as full size dolls, because tiny stitching and tiny pieces makes for a very slow project. I’ve been working on these things for days!

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So, where did I leave off?

Right, here. So as you can see, tiny stitches are the name of the game. Not only does tight stitching look better, proportionally, but it also helps you make smooth curves, and keeps it from pulling apart when you clip and turn. Clipping and notching is cutting the seam allowance to let the doll curve more smoothly when you turn it inside out. 

Here we have both arms on, after much sweatin g and stitchripping. It is important to turn the doll inside out periodically to check for huge mistakes. Sewing is always a balance between frustration and regret - sometimes you say fuck it and let a mistake stand, and sometimes you painstakingly fix it.

I had to give up on an appliquéd headband, since the piece was so small it shredded as I pulled it off the fusible webbing. I really wanted a headband, though, so I satin stitched it. It looks okay.

There is always a certain point in a doll project where you are like “that’s fucked up looking”. Dolls are an exercise in uncanny valley, since the more complex they get, the more hideous and painful they look during crafting. This one just has her ass turned inside out, so she’s doing pretty good.

With the arms in the completed side seams, the legs just go in the butt seam. It was easier to just flip the butt than put the doll back after turning. You will notice, the toes point up instead of to the sides like in the draft doll. I prefer them that way, but didn’t care enough to fix the draft doll. The legs are sticking out through the spine seam, and once the butt seam is stitched and stitchripped and stitched a few times, all you have to do is pull on the legs and the entire doll is suddenly normal shaped.

The doll still needs a couple finishing touches - a face drawn on with waterproof pen, and a ladder stitched back seam. Ladde r stitching is the go-to hand stitch for finishing stuffed animals and dolls.

I am still working on the other three dolls, and will hopefully post the finished dolls in good lighting tomorrow!

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kathuman replied to your post: keyhole dolls part one
These are looking great, I love seeing the thought process behind your build

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Thanks! I am having a great time making them, except for the part where they are infinitely frustrating.

So, the aim of this project is to create little dolls a three year old can comfortably hold and play with. My sister is not a fan of plastic, and stores are remarkably short on little human dolls that aren’t superheroes or princesses anyway, so I figured it was worth a shot.

I have been making dolls from patterns for most of my life, so drafting a pattern just took a little trial and error. The pattern comes out a lot like a mini version of Black Apple dolls.

I used my least favorite fabric and some sharpie. I didn’t cut these out - I just folded the fabric and sewed it like that, then cut the sewn pieces loose. Tiny pieces are very prone to warping and fraying, and thi s method helps protect them.

Here is my first draft doll. No stuffing, and I adjusted the arm and leg length and angle a bit as I sewed. Now, it would be much simpler to make a pancake doll (a doll made out of two flat pieces of fabric) but I wanted separate limb pieces for sturdiness. See: three year old. Pancake dolls tend to rip at the crotch and armpit from the stress, and are not very flexible for sitting and moving and stuff.

Here you can see ho w my first draft measured up to my initial pattern. I wanted the doll to be a bit smaller, but had to abandon that because it was just impossible to turn neatly. As you will see, the separate shoe color also got ditched because of turning difficulties.

Next I scrounged around for skin and hair colors. The brown in the lower right is great stuff - it has a pattern on one side, and plain brown on the other. The more wrinkled colors are vegetable dyed - the two in the middle are both made by just cramming a pot full of onion skins, boiling, and soaking fabric in there with a bit of salt. I can’t promise it will hold up to the wash or to sunlight, but let’s be honest, these dolls will die of toddler-related ca uses before it really matters.

The best way to pick palettes is to basically set up piles of cloth shaped like dolls. I put the first draft doll there to remind myself of the scale I had to stick to. That’s why the stripes got weeded out. Try to pick small scale prints.

Rag dolls are usually turned through an opening under their arm. At this scale, that’s simply not possible, especially because the limbs are proportionally pretty thick. In stead of a solid back, I used two pieces. Works great. This is why you need test pieces. Also, you basically have to use the tightest stitches on your machine at this scale, which makes stitchripping a nightmare.

Here is a pile of limbs. You can do whatever sleeve length you want - I will tolerate dolls wearing shoeless stockings for convenience, but I strongly prefer dolls with skin colored hands. I ripped up quilt batting to stuff them because the Legit Stuffing is too slippery to shove in to something so small.

The plaid and corduroy were taken from old shirts of mine. Beware using slithery synthetic stuff like the plaid. It frays and twists around. Consider interfacing pieces like that.

Here are various hairstyles. Tracing paper is your friend when it comes to drafting patterns consistently. They are all going to look vaguely like lego figures, because that’s what happens at this scale. I didn’t want any hair a toddler could rip off.

Attach the hair to the face with fusible webbing, then satin stitch its edges so it doesn’t fray. (Tiny zigzag stitch.) THEN attach the face to the body. I fucked that step up and had to stitchrip.

He re is the latest progress shot I have. I am just sewing the head front to the head back. Then I will add the arms, then the legs. Stay tuned.

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Anonymous asked: will you (roughly speaking) document the dolls as they get made? i'd love to see the process

Hm, I can try. I have been taking a few pictures…

everambling:

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After a bit of stitchripping, I have made progress!

To do:

Satin stitch the edges of the hair fabric, using three different thread colors wow I sure do love rethreading my machine

Cut and fuse the headband to one doll

Reattach heads to bodies

Stuff arms and legs

Sew front of head to back of head

Arrange arms and sew them in

Arrange legs and sew them in

Flip

Stuff

Sew shut

Ink faces

Check one Christmas present off the list!

Clean desk for next present.

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alder-berry:

baital:

rachellephant:

the most important thing to me ever is bi kids knowing that it’s ok to be 10% attracted to women and 90% attracted to men or 10% attracted to men and 90% attracted to women and still feeling ok to identify as bi, and still feeling like their identity is valid, and still feeling like they can lead fulfilling lives with both (or other) genders. like that’s just so fricking important.

I’m a bi adult and you know what? I needed this. Thank you.

it’s also important to remember that it can be a fluid % like sometimes it’ll be 50/50 some times 10/90 and then drift into a 45/65 or even 2/98 and it’s still okay. It’s just where you are at that time in your life. 

(via morathor)

ticktocktober replied to your post: How do you tell google you don’t want gore No real…
does safe search restrict it too much? bc i think that’s p much the only option

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Regrettable. Tag ur shit, google images.